PC On\Off\Suspend\Restart Problem

cool breeze

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I don't remember how long ago this started, or if its always been this way and I just noticed it late in the game.

I'll try to illustrate the issues as clearly as possible:

If I power down my PC with either Windows, or holding the power button for four seconds, I cannot power the PC back on.

If the PC goes into suspend (from Windows, or if Power button is set to Suspend in BIOS under the "Power Button < 4 seconds" option), the PC will not wake back up.

In both scenarios, if I flip the power switch on the PSU (near the AC plug) off, then on, THEN try to power back up, it WORKS.

In the first example, it works as normal.

In the second example, it shows the "Resuming Windows" text although the supply hadn't been shut off at the button (enough time for the motherboard LED to turn off and everything). I would think the PC would believe its coming from having been shut-off entirely. I'm not sure how it knows it was suspended after being blocked off from the input power altogether.



Any thoughts? *cough*phobus*cough*
 
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By the way, after a recent reformat and reinstall of Windows, it worked fine several times of pressing a button on the keyboard to wake it back up after going to suspend from the factory 7 settings. Then it stopped...

It seems like every time I've disrupted its power state NOT in Windows, it functions as it should. For instance a reset will actually turn back on, not just do the quick power off portion and then hang there permanently. Its only once its gotten in to the OS I've noticed..
 
This is similar to my first PC, I assume.
If I turned off my PC, I couldn't turn it back on, no matter what I did. Hibernate, turn off, stand-by, etc. I had to go in the back and unplug my power source and flip the switch completely off. Wait about 2 seconds, plug it back in, and flip the switch back on.

I'm not too sure if this solution is applicable to your problem, but I replaced the power source and I haven't had that problem again.
 
I had a problem were it would just randomly restart but never heard of this :/
 
This is similar to my first PC, I assume.
If I turned off my PC, I couldn't turn it back on, no matter what I did. Hibernate, turn off, stand-by, etc. I had to go in the back and unplug my power source and flip the switch completely off. Wait about 2 seconds, plug it back in, and flip the switch back on.

I'm not too sure if this solution is applicable to your problem, but I replaced the power source and I haven't had that problem again.

I've deliberately left out the "what I think it is" portion of this thread. I find that when people ask for help it tends to influence the answers of the people posting on the question.

However, this is the conclusion I've arrived to as of yet. My father suggested there may be a problem between the case button and its wiring to the motherboard (a short, for instance, caused by wire routing and what sharp\flat metal edges can do to rubber insulation). I was with him on the idea in that its way cheaper to replace that and find out than it would be with a PSU, but fortunately, my spare PC should be able to accept this PSU no problem and also has Win 7 Ult (only difference is its 32bit).

I believe placing it in there and putting it through the same conditions should tell me if its the PSU or one of my other components. I just need that PC to be available for use (my little cousin just moved back in with us, so I set it up for him).

I was kinda stabbin in the dark here hoping people would come up with diagnostic ideas I could use to narrow it down until then.

Thanks a million for the input, Ric.
 
Well, let's get one thing straight.
What powersupply are you using, and how old is it?
 
Its an OCZGXS600.

Not sure on the age, but I imagine at least a birthday of 2007.

It could just be that it's crapping out. I mean, that's the bad series of OCZ PSUs, and it's at least 3 years old. If you have another system that you could test the PSU on, then try that.
 
It could just be that it's crapping out. I mean, that's the bad series of OCZ PSUs, and it's at least 3 years old. If you have another system that you could test the PSU on, then try that.

It just in the next room. It's a P4 single core 3.0GHz (32bit) rig, but that power supply should have all of the right connectors to power it up, let it go into suspend, utilize restart from the start menu, etc... to find out if it can actually power back up without the power supply switch being switched off and waiting a few seconds, then on again before the case's power button is used.

I'll post back with the results, but to get started early, say it doesn't do it on the reference PC, what are the next likely culprits? My thoughts are:

- Wiring between case switch and header on the motherboard shorting\faulty switch.
- Faulty hard drive. Fails to initialize previously opened session for some reason.
- Something subtle in Windows 7. Slight miscommunication between software and hardware. Doesn't seem to explain inability to power up from complete "off" state.
- I found something about this power supply in this hardware roundup\review (included in this summary is the 700W version of this PSU as they are nearly identical). The text of interest is this:

"Switching power supplies – any switching power supplies – cannot work under zero load because the energy accumulated in the inductances of the PSU’s output circuits (in the transformer or choke, depending on the topology employed) doesn’t go into the load, which results in an uncontrollable growth of voltage on the PSU output. The ATX standard, however, requires that the PSU be able to start up without external load, and the manufacturers used to install resistors that provided the necessary minimum of load. Such PSUs worked normally and yielded stable voltages even if nothing at all was connected to them.

Lately, those resistors have been abandoned as the manufacturers are trying to improve the efficiency of their products. Of course, the resistors dissipate little power, but this is still considerable when the PSU is under minimum load. Another problem rose up as a consequence. New PSUs would not start up with some mainboards, those that didn’t provide some minimum load right after the start. As a result, the PSU that didn’t have its own internal load would not operate correctly or would not send the Power OK signal to the mainboard.

To avoid this problem, FSP engineers implemented a “smart” internal load that works only for the first few seconds on your turning the PSU on. It is located on a separate small card (see the photograph above) and consists of two clusters of pull-up resistors, two transistors that connect those clusters to the +5V and +12V circuits, and an RC circuit that keeps the transistors open for a short interval after the turning on of the PSU. As soon as the RC circuit capacitor is charged up, the transistors close and turn off the pull-up resistors. By this time, the mainboard should have started up successfully, providing an external load on the PSU. This is how simple it is. It’s even strange that PSU manufacturers didn’t come to this solution long ago. The problem of not-starting-up mainboards wouldn’t have occurred then (this problem was reported not only with regards to FSP power supplies, by the way).

However, there can be another problem. The PSU may refuse to start up if you turn it on right after having shut it down. If the capacitor of the RC circuit hasn’t had enough time to get uncharged, the transistors will be open initially. I don’t think that’s much of problem, though. You can just wait for a few minutes and try to turn the PC on again."

...from this link:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cases/display/atx-psu6_5.html#


The only difference obvious to me is that my scenario requires the cycling of the power switch located on the power supply to boot the computer. It seems like an interesting lead but you would think they would have engineered this to an extent to avoid such unnecessary measures require for otherwise casual and reliable use. It doesn't show any other symptoms or shortcomings in performance under any conditions that I've noticed.
 
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Okay. Wall of text. Whew.

So once you test the PSU on a different computer,
you can test if the front IO panel wires are shorting by using the power button on your motherboard (which you should. I mean, my cheapo CHEAPO mobo has one. lol). If you don't, try unplugging them and plugging them back in.

Also, if you want to test the HDD on another system, just plug it in to that other system and run HDTune on it.
 
OK, first PSU test is complete.

Plugged it into my other PC. Will not power on or respond beyond a single green motherboard LED.

My guess? This power supply is a 20+4, the motherboard in the test machine only requires 20, but still has a connector for the CPU to get its own power. As the power supply is a 4+4, I naturally used the plug, CPU1. I wonder if in a scenario such as this, the separate CPU power connector really needs the +4 plug that can turn the 20 into a 24 and not one of the 4+4 plugs (CPU1 and CPU2). Alas, the +4 connector is not capable of reaching across the motherboard to test the theory and find out.
 
OK, first PSU test is complete.

Plugged it into my other PC. Will not power on or respond beyond a single green motherboard LED.

My guess? This power supply is a 20+4, the motherboard in the test machine only requires 20, but still has a connector for the CPU to get its own power. As the power supply is a 4+4, I naturally used the plug, CPU1. I wonder if in a scenario such as this, the separate CPU power connector really needs the +4 plug that can turn the 20 into a 24 and not one of the 4+4 plugs (CPU1 and CPU2). Alas, the +4 connector is not capable of reaching across the motherboard to test the theory and find out.

I don't think so. Even if you could try that out, I don't know if you should. I mean, it might fry your motherboard/cpu/computer. It could have the same effect of plugging in a USB cable into a 1394 header on the motherboard. That kills your mobo, if you didn't catch that. lol

So it would seem that your PSU has taken a dump. Time for a new one. Budget, and what are your specs?
 

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