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New Bike
- Thread starter BioHazardd
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looks nice man and the gear work is really great
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- Jun 13, 2008
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What kinda problems are we talking though?
I'm not like a hard core trail rider or anything like that, just the average biker.. I don't need anything more then like 4-500$.
Iron Horse - really can't recommend that brand. This Shimano components on that bike are probably on the very lowest end; the steel will make that frame heavy and unresponsive; you'd be much happier with a true aluminum-frame mountain bike. I've always felt the rear-suspension bikes to be overrated; when your treading downhill, you're standing up and your legs absorb the shocks and act like your suspension; the mechanical component just feels superficial.
Trek's entry level 3700 ($380) mountain bike is better equiped than the Iron Horse; however, if you can afford the extra $ I'd recommend stepping up to the 4300 Trek( $450). It comes in two colors, orange or black (I prefer the orange maself), boasts a nice Shimano Alivio derailleur, and Bontrager components galore.
http://bikebarn.com/itemdetails.cfm?action=specs&ID=4555
Trek's entry level 3700 ($380) mountain bike is better equiped than the Iron Horse; however, if you can afford the extra $ I'd recommend stepping up to the 4300 Trek( $450). It comes in two colors, orange or black (I prefer the orange maself), boasts a nice Shimano Alivio derailleur, and Bontrager components galore.
http://bikebarn.com/itemdetails.cfm?action=specs&ID=4555
Last edited:
- Joined
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Hm okay, thanks Ducttape, but like I said, I really don't do much trail riding and what not.
I'll look in to the 4300 and the 3700! 50$ extra isn't too much. I can do that.
Edit;
I forgot to mention I'd like to have dual disc breaks.
I'll look in to the 4300 and the 3700! 50$ extra isn't too much. I can do that.
Edit;
I forgot to mention I'd like to have dual disc breaks.
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- May 13, 2008
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Doesn't look too bad. If you are not going to go crazy, then the components should hold up.
Then again, if you aren't going to go crazy, the rear suspension (or even front suspension, for that matter) may seem extranneous.
I have been mountain biking on and off since 1993 - mostly "off" since I wrecked my Diamondback pretty hard in Boston's arboretum in 1994.
I got it fixed a few years later and treated myself to a Marin bolinas Ridge last year.
I got the previous year's model for $325, so it was like $100 cheaper.
I am 6'0'' so I may have bought a slightly too-tall frame for mountain biking (again, dammit) but I love it.
Get on some bikes and try them out before you buy. Take them around the parking lot. That's all you need to do to know which one feels right. They will all steer and handle differently.
Happy riding, and for the love of god, wear a helmet. <-- speaking from much experience on that matter. Falling isn't your only concern - those low-hanging tree limbs are very, very hard.
LOL So is the bike frame when it comes down on you after a handle-bar flip.
Then again, if you aren't going to go crazy, the rear suspension (or even front suspension, for that matter) may seem extranneous.
I have been mountain biking on and off since 1993 - mostly "off" since I wrecked my Diamondback pretty hard in Boston's arboretum in 1994.
I got it fixed a few years later and treated myself to a Marin bolinas Ridge last year.
I got the previous year's model for $325, so it was like $100 cheaper.
I am 6'0'' so I may have bought a slightly too-tall frame for mountain biking (again, dammit) but I love it.
Get on some bikes and try them out before you buy. Take them around the parking lot. That's all you need to do to know which one feels right. They will all steer and handle differently.
Happy riding, and for the love of god, wear a helmet. <-- speaking from much experience on that matter. Falling isn't your only concern - those low-hanging tree limbs are very, very hard.
LOL So is the bike frame when it comes down on you after a handle-bar flip.
Been mountain biking for about 3 years now, and i worked at a bike shop for almost a year. First things first,
1. Know the frame size you want, your height is taken into consideration here as well as personal preference. Frames are a crucial part of a bike, its structure, your foundation. Frames are made out of many different things these days, and wieght should also be looked at. Both of these play a very large part in over all comfort while riding.
2. What kind of riding will you be doing most of the time? While Full suspension bikes are bundles of fun and can take a very intense beating, there not for everyone, and generally speaking if your going to be doing more XC/easier riding its not essential.
3. Components, make sure they are decent quality, these are the things that will dent your wallet later on down the road. Brakes, and derailluers are the big 2 here. When looking at brakes dont look at what "looks cool" especially if your actually going to be riding this thing off road and in hazardous situations. Just because there is a disc doesn't mean its good. While working in the bike shop I encountered way to many cases of "My bike wont shift", and "My brakes dont work". While most of these can be fixed easily with re-adjusting, its money you don't need to be wasting, and you will most likley need to be coming back a few months later. Most important thing to remember here (and with alot) is the more money you spend, the better bike your going to get. Other things like tires, wheels, spokes, pedals, levers, shifters, and handle bars are also very important, and are often the source of failure.
I'm not going to lie, i have gone through 4 bikes in 3 years. Now I worked in a bike shop, and therefor didnt have to pay for alot of what i rode (and broke ( : ). The most exspensive bike I have owned is the one i am currently riding. It cost me a total of about 1000 (Had i not worked at the shop it would have been about 2000). However not the nicest bike, I have had the luxury of riding a Surly karate monkey that was completely decked out, unfortunently i couldnt bring that when i moved : (.
All in all I would strongly suggest that you "test" some bikes out before buying. Go to a local bike shop and talk to them about what kind of riding/price range and they should point you in the right direction. Also point out to them your level of skill, because yes the fact is some bikes are literally "harder" to ride then others. In your case the bike your looking at is an entry level mountain bike, now if that is your level of skill then by all means that might be something for you. Be aware that bikes are not cheap, and they will only continue to get more expensive. Hopefully this post will help you, and dont forget to SHOP AROUND, its always nice to look around at different brands, and models. Good luck in your search, and regardless of what you end up getting HAVE FUN RIDING IT!
1. Know the frame size you want, your height is taken into consideration here as well as personal preference. Frames are a crucial part of a bike, its structure, your foundation. Frames are made out of many different things these days, and wieght should also be looked at. Both of these play a very large part in over all comfort while riding.
2. What kind of riding will you be doing most of the time? While Full suspension bikes are bundles of fun and can take a very intense beating, there not for everyone, and generally speaking if your going to be doing more XC/easier riding its not essential.
3. Components, make sure they are decent quality, these are the things that will dent your wallet later on down the road. Brakes, and derailluers are the big 2 here. When looking at brakes dont look at what "looks cool" especially if your actually going to be riding this thing off road and in hazardous situations. Just because there is a disc doesn't mean its good. While working in the bike shop I encountered way to many cases of "My bike wont shift", and "My brakes dont work". While most of these can be fixed easily with re-adjusting, its money you don't need to be wasting, and you will most likley need to be coming back a few months later. Most important thing to remember here (and with alot) is the more money you spend, the better bike your going to get. Other things like tires, wheels, spokes, pedals, levers, shifters, and handle bars are also very important, and are often the source of failure.
I'm not going to lie, i have gone through 4 bikes in 3 years. Now I worked in a bike shop, and therefor didnt have to pay for alot of what i rode (and broke ( : ). The most exspensive bike I have owned is the one i am currently riding. It cost me a total of about 1000 (Had i not worked at the shop it would have been about 2000). However not the nicest bike, I have had the luxury of riding a Surly karate monkey that was completely decked out, unfortunently i couldnt bring that when i moved : (.
All in all I would strongly suggest that you "test" some bikes out before buying. Go to a local bike shop and talk to them about what kind of riding/price range and they should point you in the right direction. Also point out to them your level of skill, because yes the fact is some bikes are literally "harder" to ride then others. In your case the bike your looking at is an entry level mountain bike, now if that is your level of skill then by all means that might be something for you. Be aware that bikes are not cheap, and they will only continue to get more expensive. Hopefully this post will help you, and dont forget to SHOP AROUND, its always nice to look around at different brands, and models. Good luck in your search, and regardless of what you end up getting HAVE FUN RIDING IT!
I sold countless trek 3700's, and got nothing but good reviews from customers, its a great bike for the price and the components are decent. And the good thing about buying a trek in most shops is that you will get some sort of warranty on the major components. But again look at some of the higher models, while the most of the major components are the same, the smaller ones that i mentioned earlier are better. An easy way of telling your average customer this would be, the higher the model the better its equiped.
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- Jun 13, 2008
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I'm 5'10" and about 165lbs ..
I sat on either a 17 or 18" not too long ago, and it seemed just right..
What are your thoughts ?
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- Apr 16, 2009
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I know little to nothing about mountain bikes, but i asked a friend, if he approved....
Guess that is the one for you, if chuck approves...
Guess that is the one for you, if chuck approves...
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I know little to nothing about mountain bikes, but i asked a friend, if he approved....
lol, thanks Chuck.
Sounds good!!
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I've been biking now for many many years, mountain and road, and I'm still not a fan of full suspension on bikes for most applications. If you are doing hardcore downhilling or rough single track, it's not a bad idea (for downhill it is necessary), but for casual trail riding and on road type stuff it is awful. It adds weight and complexity to the bike, but worst of all it saps your pedaling power, as some of the energy of each pedal stroke is used up compressing the suspension. It's lost effort, and on longer rides really adds up. For almost all applications a similarly priced hard tail bike will be a better solution.
I also NEVER buy a new bike. Really. There are literally MILLIONS of bikes out there sitting unused and unloved. Check your local craigslist, talk to friends and relatives, and at some point you will get a screaming deal on a good used bike. Right now my current ride is a hacked together fixed gear that I build around a top of the line (from the 80s) steel fuji frame, hand built (by me) wheels, and a mish-mass of parts that I've acquired through craigslist, ebay, veloswap (the worlds largest bike swap meet) and friends. My overall $$$ put in is about $200, and it's a sub-16lbs screamer.
I also NEVER buy a new bike. Really. There are literally MILLIONS of bikes out there sitting unused and unloved. Check your local craigslist, talk to friends and relatives, and at some point you will get a screaming deal on a good used bike. Right now my current ride is a hacked together fixed gear that I build around a top of the line (from the 80s) steel fuji frame, hand built (by me) wheels, and a mish-mass of parts that I've acquired through craigslist, ebay, veloswap (the worlds largest bike swap meet) and friends. My overall $$$ put in is about $200, and it's a sub-16lbs screamer.
My Rigid fisher paragon frame, with avid brakes in front, and a cheapo in the back. outfitted with Shimano hollowtech cranks, sram X7 derailleurs, truvativ bars with various bontrager race components. Have a Surly fork( Very rigid fork) put up front. Bontrager JonesXR tire in the front, and a WTB nano raptor tire in the back, both sitting on 29in custom built wheels. Lovely bike for XC riding, put it through severe beatings on a regular basis : ). Originally made this bike where I worked and lived in southern MN, everything was XC. Moved down to NC and now regret not getting my RockShox Reba off the old bike : (, will eventually upgrade the fork when i get some extra cash.
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