I know this post is very long, but I know what I'm talking about, and some of this might be useful to you.
The first things I can see wrong with your build are:
1. You aren't including a heat sink. It's a HORRIBLE idea to use a high-end processor in a gaming computer with the stock heat sink.
2. As much as I REALLY hate to say it, AMD has been beaten severely by Intel as far as high end processors go. The Phenom has the right idea, as far as true quad core archetechture, but the Q6600 (for a tiny price increase, about $10-20 depending on site) vastly outperforms it. The only downside to using Intel at this point for high-end processors is that the first party motherboards aren't compatible with nVidia SLI, though they have Crossfire. Though, I just built a computer for a friend of mine (ArclighT, in this clan) and he runs TF2 at 200+ FPS on full settings with a Q6600 and a single 8800 GTX.
EDIT:
After noting the re-fixed build below, I've still got some things.
1. No heat sink, again.
I suggest, for the heatsink:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134
and for the thermal compound:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186020
No, I don't work for Arctic Cooling, but if you'll ask anyone I've recommended it to, they're amazing. And far cheaper than Zalman, Thermaltake, and the other "big name" companies, while outperforming them in most cases by 10°C or more. Their thermal compound works better than Arctic Silver 5, the "big name" for thermal compound, by by about 2-5°C
2. For the price, go for the Q6600 if you can get one without too much more money (on some sites, and at some times, they're chaper than the Core 2 Duos).
3. Corsair isn't "the" best anymore, but still good. Check benchmarks versus OCZ's memory for the same price. Sometimes OCZ is ahead, sometimes Corsair is, sometimes other companies (Mushkin comes to mind) is ahead. All depends on price range. I think Tom's Hardware has a chart somewhere, but I can't do ALL The work for you. =P
4. BFG Tech makes more reliable cards than XFX or EVGA, if the card you want (not sure about the plain old GT) is available from BFG Tech, I'd get it, even if it costs an extra $10-20. XFX and EVGA both have a history of dying on you, and BFG Tech provides a very nice warranty with their products in most cases. XFX cards ARE pretty, though, and I've currently got one in my wife's computer that's been running fine for a year. Mostly luck, I think.
5. ...In the second build, you have a beige DVD writer selected. Also, be sure to have an IDE-based optical drive available during your build, as most operating systems won't install on most SATA-based optical drives. You can unplug the IDE drive after the OS and driver install.
6. That case. Hm. I get the feeling you're going for cheap, but if you somehow had the money,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811233003
Yes, the case makes a big difference, it has a very nice layout for cooling.. the only problem is that an 8800 GTX is a VERY tight fit, length wise, but still cools just fine and can be done. Another reason to buy a different brand of video card--XFX cards are longer and have annoying black rails on the side that make them hard to install on toolless cases. The reasons for a good case will be a little more obvious after reading the next bit.
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Now, about those fans.
Fans may not seem important, but trust me, they're VERY important. I'ma give you some tips about how to pick out some good ones.
Most people just look at CFM, or cubic feet per minute, when choosing a fan. This is an important thing to look at, as higher CFM
does mean more air moved, and a cooler running computer. However, when choosing fans, be sure to put thought into your case pressure.
Positive pressure means a little more heat, but very little dust. Negative pressure means a little less heat, but lots more dust. In the long run, since most people don't dust their cases, heat sinks, and fan filters out very often, positive pressure's the best choice. This is also why it's a good reason to leave your case sides ON and keep everything tightly closed.
To achieve positive pressure, you want to put a very strong front fan on your computer, and if your case allows, a side fan blowing inward. 120mm fans are best for this, as they can achieve good pressure without much noise or power consumption, and last much longer than 80mm fans. Your exhaust fans should go in the back of the case and the top (if applicable), and should have only slightly less pressure, combined, than the intake. You can see how much air they'll be moving by checking the CFM rating of the fans, available on most reputable computer part sites. Different models of the same fan can have drastically different CFM.
For exhaust fans, "cage" type fans work better than square fans, as more air can reach them and get pulled out of your case, rather than building up pockets of heat. For some low noise, low pressure exhaust fans (good for when you want two fans without creating a huge vaccuum) I use:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186018
Also, when buying fans, be sure to check the dBA rating. This is the amount of sound created by the fan. 20 dBA is a little louder than a whisper. 40 dBA is about as loud as an air conditioner. 60 dBA is about the level of a TV or conversation. 90 is as loud as a truck engine. Most people wear headphones or have loud speakers while gaming, and some people (like me) like sleeping with white noise in the background, but you may want to take into account how much sound the fans make regardless. While you can't just add up the dBA ratings of the fans to see how loud they are, I can tell you if you want the computer reasonably quiet, the added dBA shouldn't go above 100, and no individual fan should be over 40. This is very hard to do with 80mm fans, but very few good cases for under $100 have the appropriate number of 120mm fans.